Things to look for in a Rolls Royce or Bentley
1981-2000 4-door sedan models – Silver Spirit, Silver Dawn,
Silver Spur and 2 door models – Corniche, Continental, Azure
In this essay I'd like to show you a few things to look for
in 1981-2000 Rolls Royce and Bentley motorcars. I hope you'll be able to use
this information to inspect your own car or avoid unexpected surprises when
buying a car. In addition to studying this article, I strongly suggest you
retain the services of an expert to inspect any Rolls Royce car prior to
purchase.
To find a Bentley or Rolls Royce workshop near you, look under the
"services" tab on the home page of the Rolls Royce Owner's Club, I
recommend joining the club if you plan to acquire a car. The Rolls-Royce and Bentley brands were built under common ownership from 1931-1998. At that point the companies went into a process of sale that culminated with VW taking the Bentley name, the Crewe factory, and support for all over cars. BMW took the Rolls-Royce name, designed a totally new car, and now builds it at a plant in Goodwood. Some Bentley dealers retain staff who were trained on these older cars, which are now referred to as "Crewe built vehicles." Most dealer staff are trained on the new cars, which are VW/Audi designs from a mechanical perspective.
Prices quoted here are for general guidance only and are
current as of spring 2014. Complete
restoration of a 1980s or 1990s Rolls Royce or Bentley motorcar will run well
over $100,000. These were expensive cars
when new, and they remain costly to keep in top form. As they get older more and more owners are
facing extensive repairs. Keep that
number in mind for perspective as you read the costs of some system repairs
described below.
Remember that owners have varying standards. Work that’s done to a show-willing level will
cost more than work that “just gets the job done.” Terms like “engine rebuild” mean different
things to different people. One shop
sells a rebuild for $7,000 and it has new rings, bearings, and gaskets –
nothing more. Another shop does a
rebuild for $40,000 and every part is both refinished better than new and
mechanically restored to as-new or better condition. There’s a buyer for both engines, but don’t
buy the first and expect the second.
These are collectible cars, and you always have to consider the
appearance of systems when they are serviced.
If you paint or replace chassis assemblies when they come apart for
service the time and cost will rise, but that sort of work is what separates
repair from restoration. Think about
your goals – which do you want to be doing?
The worst problem with 1980s-1990s Bentley and Rolls Royce cars is owner
neglect. These are expensive cars to
maintain, and they depreciated very quickly in their early years. By the time these cars turned 20 years old
most had lost 70-90% of their value. That
caused people to decide it was not worth putting money into them, and it led to
cars being sold to people who lacked the resources to care for them no matter
how they felt.
How do you tell if a car has been neglected or kept up? The first sign of a neglected car is its
cosmetic appearance. How is the paint
and brightwork? These cars have a mix of
stainless steel, chrome, nickel plate, and anodize trim. Trim parts are getting scarce and repair
costs can be high.
If you have access to a paint gauge, see how thick the
finish is on the panels. Readings over
12 thousandths suggest future trouble, and big differences between adjacent
panels suggest repairs. Most of these
cars have been repainted – some more than once.
Quality varies widely. Can you
live with the finish you see? Think
carefully because painting one of these cars properly is costly.
A “budget” paint job will approach $10,000 and a top quality
job – with all the trim removed, the car stripped to bare metal, and all new
rubbers and seals – can easily cost $40,000.
1996 Bentley stripped for refinishing |
If you are looking at a convertible pay close attention to
the condition of the top, and the tightness of the attachments where the top
meets the rear body. Tears or gaps mean
it’s time for a new top. The top
consists of an outer cover, inner padding, and a wood headliner. The rear bows and tack strips on pre-95 cars
are wood, and subject to rot. A complete
new top will cost over $10,000.
Pre-1995 convertibles had simple top hydraulics. The 1996-newer Bentley Azure and Rolls Royce
Corniche had much more complex systems with multiple lines, valves, and
rams. Those systems are now aging and we
see cars needing new lines and rams throughout. Such a job will run into five
figures so beware of that possibility on later dropheads. An Azure that needs top hydraulic lines and actuators and has worn canvas or a bad back window is a car that needs $25k in work.
How about the interior?
Faded and split leather, cracked and peeling woodwork, perforated or
worn carpets and faded and damaged paint are all signs of a car that's been
allowed to run down. You can dye faded
leather but leather that is cracked and broken may need to be replaced. A good dye job can run $3,000. A new leather interior can cost ten times
that.
A clean interior |
A damaged interior |
Wood is also fragile in these cars, and it too is costly to
restore. If you see a lot of cracking in
the wood door caps, or on the dash, plan on $5-10k for that repair, and more if
you need new veneers. Will Rau and others make wood steering wheels and shifters for these cars if you are willing to pay for them.
Most of these cars came with sheepskin floor overlays. New overlays are about $1,200. Look at the underlying carpet – are they
faded, worn, or damaged? New carpets
will run into the middle four figures.
When I evaluate cars I try to distinguish between natural
wear of original finishes and materials, quality restoration or repair, and
shoddy re-dos. I also distinguish
between wear that is appropriate and wear that signals neglect or abuse.
Whenever you see cosmetic neglect you can be virtually
certain there is mechanical neglect also. It's just harder to see. Visible tip
offs are enough to make me steer clear of 75% of the examples in today’s used
car marketplace.
What do we look for mechanically?
I start by looking at the tires. Every modern Bentley or Rolls Royce was
originally fitted with tires carrying a V or higher speed rating. Speed rated
tires have stiff sidewalls, and those stiff sidewalls are what make heavy cars
like this nimble. Non-speed-rated tires will give a mushy ride and mushy
handling.
However, proper tires are expensive and they are becoming
hard to find for some models. Avon and
Goodyear made most of the tires fitted to US market RR/B cars. Avon tires are still available but they can
cost $2,500 a set for some models. Good
tires are a sign of a cared-for car. Crummy
tires may indicate indifferent care, or they may mean the owner could not find
anything better.
Open the hood and see how things look. Is it clean? Is the paint peeling or does it
look intact? Peeling paint can be a sign
of overheating and high under hood temps.
Does it look clean and cared for, or is it a mess?
A well cared for car may have a dusty motor, but it should
not be oily or filthy. Look for signs of oil leakage around the valve covers
and in the center of the engine. Look under the car for signs of leakage, too.
There should not be any substantial fluid leakage, but all older cars do seep
some oil. Fluids should be reasonably clean and the levels should be correct.
Belts and hoses should not show signs of deterioration.
Open the oil filler and check for sludge, foam, or gunk. The
cork gasket should be reasonably clean as shown in the photo. If the car passes
the cosmetic inspection and it has decent tires we can move on to the other
areas. We'll start by checking the braking system.
Before starting the vehicle from cold, turn the key on and
make sure BRAKE 1 and BRAKE 2 warning indicators light up. These lights have
had different names through the years but there are always two of them, and
they should both light if the vehicle has been sitting more than a day. If they
don't light up when you switch the key on, give the brake pedal 10-20 quick
pumps. If that puts them on, fine. If not, you have a problem with the warning
lights. They are either broken or disconnected. I advise you not to drive any
Rolls Royce whose brake pressure lights are inoperative since the brakes could
completely fail without any warning.
The brake pressure lights should not be on in a warm car or
one that has been run recently. Once you start the car, both lights should go
out within 30 seconds. Lights that stay on indicate weak accumulator valve
blocks, a $1,000+ repair. You should be able to shut the key off on a warm car,
turn it on again without cranking the engine, and pump the brakes at least 20
times before the BRAKE lights illuminate. If the lights come on in less than 20
pumps, that's a sign of weak accumulators.
A car whose brake pressure lights come on within 10 pumps
may be unsafe to drive. A car whose brake pressure light flashes when you jab
the brakes once of twice as the engine idles is definitely unsafe to drive.
Having passed this test, start the car and let it warm up.
Do you hear any exhaust leaks? Are there any tapping noises from the engine?
And strange smells? Take note of anything out of the ordinary. The car should
start and run smoothly, with no smoke from the exhaust.
How does the engine idle, especially with the air
conditioner and all accessories off, when fully warmed up? Roughness can signal
clogged injectors or other engine management problems. You should see the check
engine lamp illuminate when cranking the car and it should go out when the car starts.
If you do not see a check engine lamp at all it may have been disconnected (a
sign of concealed trouble.)
1993 and newer cars seem especially prone to injector
problems. To address any of these engine running problems I recommend finding a
shop with the old Rolls Royce Mastercheck test system or the new Bentley Omitec legacy tool as the cars are not compatible with
generic OBD II test gear. These same
cars are prone to failure of the o rings in the fuel injection system; leaks
create fire hazards. This has become
more of a problem with the proliferation of ethanol fuel.
Bentley and Rolls Royce used an electric gearshift system. The shift
level in the car is not connected mechanically to the transmission. Instead,
it's connected to a group of switches that operate a motor on the side of the
transmission that does the gear shifting. With your foot on the brake shift the
car through the gears and make sure they all engage. The contacts in the shift
mechanism can become flaky and the car will fail to change gears if this
happens. If the engine is running well and the gear change is working normally
you're ready to drive off.
Pay close attention to the ride - a mushy, floating ride can
cost several thousand dollars to correct, as can a hard bouncy ride. Cars built
before 1990 get mushy when the shocks wear out or leak. Each shock costs
several hundred dollars, and replacement of the front units requires a special
Rolls Royce tool and takes half a day per side.
In 1990, Bentley and Rolls Royce added electronic ride control which
consisted of a control box in the dash that sent signals to electronic dampers.
These electronic dampers are over $1,000 each to replace, and when the first
systems failed they defaulted into a rock-hard ride mode. This system, called
auto-ride, made its debut in Spur/Spirit serial numbers above 30,000. Corniche
cars did not get auto ride till later.
For 1993 the electronic ride system was altered to default
into soft mode if it fails. If either system fails you'll need a shop with the
Rolls Royce or Bentley special tool for diagnosis. There is no way to fix auto-ride with
generic shop tools.
Drive the car on a mildly rough road and listen for clunks
in the front end. The most common source of clunking is worn out front shock
bushings and compliance mounts. Replacement of these bushings is an all-day job
that requires a special Rolls Royce spring compressor.
These cars are heavy and they tend to beat the front end
bushes to pieces quickly. It's not unusual to need several bushings in a car
that's only covered 20,000 miles. A
complete replacement of front end bushings will run over $10,000.
Try the brakes. Are they smooth? Try braking from highway
speeds and watch for vibration or roughness. That's a sign of warped or rough
brake rotors. When these cars sit for long periods in humid climates, it's
common to get spots on the rotors where the pads were in contact. This results
in rough braking when the car is used again. Replacement of brake rotors on the
front of most models is a 4-6 hour job. Replacement of rear rotors requires a
special hydraulic hub tool and takes two days of labor.
When you are moving on the highway step on the gas and feel
how the car takes off. Shaking or shuddering can point to problems with the
driveshaft or drive axles. Driveline problems are fairly common on older cars.
Stumbles or lack of power may point to troubles in the engine. Make sure the
gearshifts are smooth and there are no slips or bangs.
We always try to check these cars on a lift. Check for rust
and corrosion, and any old collision damage. Look for evidence of repainting
and body repair. Look carefully at any areas where fluid actually drips. Repair
of leaks can be very costly on these cars because they are so time consuming to
work on.
These cars are hard on batteries. Make sure the battery is
less than three years old or it may fail without warning. A good shop should
have a battery tester but we see plenty of "good" batteries drop dead
at 4-5 years of age so I suggest timely replacement.
Look at the condition of brake rotors and pads. Grooving,
ridges at the edges, or rust spotting on the rotors means it's time for new
ones. Pads should have friction material that's thicker than the metal backing
plate. Any less and you need new pads, too. The park brake pads in the rear are
separate.
Look for leakage from the brake calipers. If you see one leaking I suggests resealing
them all. If your car has see-though
alloy wheels (as on a late 90s Bentley) consider refinishing the calipers in
high temp powder or ceramic coat while they are apart for overhaul.
All the rubber brake hoses should be replaced at least every
20 years, though Rolls recommends much more frequent service. Check yours. Whole car hose replacement takes 2-3 days of
labor and there are up to 22 hoses to be swapped.
Check the parking brake cables to make sure they're free.
Check the motor mounts to make sure they are not flattened or broken. Check the
rear sub frame mounts – the forward facing little shocks ahead of the back
wheels – failed ones make a harsh ride. On
pre-1995 cars, check the spare tire carrier as I've seen them rust and drop the
tire in the road.
While you're driving, try all the accessories. Is the air
conditioner cold? Is the heater hot? Swing the dial from full hot to full cold
and make sure the temperature actually adjusts. The system in these cars is
slow to change, so be prepared for it to take up to a minute to swing from full
cold to full hot. Make sure air blows from the correct places. Operate defrost
and fascia vent buttons. All those functions are controlled by servo motors,
each of which can cost several hundred dollars to buy and take several hours to
replace. A special Rolls Royce climate control tester is required to work on
these systems. Repairs to the automatic climate control can be costly.
Pay attention to the operation of windows and door locks.
Open each door and make sure the interior lights come on. If they don't you
should look for problems in the door latch, which contains the light switch.
Window lift motors get tired and slow, and replacements run $500-1,500 plus
installation. Power door lock solenoids are a common trouble spot - make sure
all the door locks and windows work properly or discount your offer
accordingly.
Power seat motors are another source of trouble on these
cars. Try each range of motion as they use separate motors. Availability of
replacement motors has been spotty as of 2006. If you are looking at a car with
power rear seats don't forget to check them, too. Try all the little gadgets - power seats, map
lights, radio, trip meter, and anything else you see. Make sure it all works.
Try the lighters.
If you are looking at a 1990 or newer car make sure the
electronic multi function instrument panel unit is fully functional. If it’s not a new one will set you back over
$3,000 – if you can find one.
The electronics are increasingly problematic in 1990 and
newer cars. Parts are no longer
available for many of the pushbutton entry systems. Fobs are long gone. Memory seat controllers are no longer available
but we do have repro units without memory.
Alarm controllers are getting scarce as are the other controllers in the
car.
Check the stereo – these cars are old enough that most have
replacement speakers, which may be very good or not so good at all. Most cars came with Delco, Pioneer, or Alpine
stereo gear from new, and most cars have been updated with highly variable
results, both from a cosmetic and functional standpoint.
When you come to a stop it's time to walk around back and
bounce the rear suspension. If it feels rock-hard you probably need gas springs
in the rear. That's several hundred dollars in parts and half a day's work on
most sedans, a day or more for some convertible and coach built models.
I suggest you check to make sure the car includes all its
little goodies. You'll be shocked what it costs to buy any that are missing.
Here are some of the things that should be included with a Rolls Royce or
Bentley:
- Sheepskin overlay carpets for front and rear passengers;
- Owner's manual, service booklet, and various other paperwork (varies by year);
- Two sets of keys with remote entry fobs (after 1993);
- Keys to unlock the wheel covers and wheels;
- There should be a tool kit/jack in the compartment at the top front of the trunk;
- There should be two bottles of mineral oil in a storage compartment in the trunk.
- The spare tire should be under the car or under the trunk floor.
I hope this gives some perspective on evaluating these cars. As always, I welcome comments, thoughts, and corrections. Best wishes from New England!
And if you want more . . . here are some of my other RR/B essays
Things to look for in a Bentley Continental GT (the first VW era design)
Thoughts on buying a used Rolls Royce or Bentley - applies to Silver Cloud and newer series cars
More thoughts on Spur - Spirit - Turbo era car buying
Thoughts on restoration - applies to all cars
Evolution of the RR/B models - Silver Shadow through Arnage/Seraph - original article from the Robison Service website
Inspecting a Rolls Royce or Bentley - Applies to Corniche, Continental, Azure, Turbo R, Mulsanne, Eight, Turbo R, Silver Spur, Silver Dawn, Silver Spirit
More Things to Look For in a 1981-2000 Rolls Royce or Bentley - this is the original article from the Robison Service website
The last Crewe built Rolls Royce convertibles - applies to 2000-2002 final Series Corniche
Repairing convertible top hydraulics - Applies to 1996-2004 Rolls Royce and Bentley Corniche and Azure cars
Head gasket failures in Bentley Turbo cars - applies to Turbo R, Continental R and T, Azure, Arnage
Checking engines after head gasket failure - Applies to all cars
Checking and inspecting Rolls Royce hydraulic systems - all cars after Silver Cloud and print to Silver Seraph. Applies to all Shadow/Spur era vehicles
Case Study - brake failure in a Shadow - Silver Shadow era cars with RR363
Rear suspension gas springs - Applies to all 1981 - 1999 cars prior to Silver Seraph
Changing batteries in seat and ECUs, Applies to 1980s-1990s Silver Spirit / Silver Spur / Mulsanne /Eight / Turbo R
Changing alarm ECU batteries, Applies to 1980s-1990s Silver Spirit / Silver Spur / Mulsanne /Eight / Turbo R
Servicing Shadow and Spur series brakes - applies to 1966 - 1999 cars after Silver Cloud and prior to Silver Seraph
Alcon racing brakes for Continental and Azure - Applies to all 1990s cars but most particularly to the final series Azure, which had these brakes fitted at the factory - a unique variant
Fixing Power Steering Leaks - applies to 90s cars with the reservoir above the alternator
Questions and answers on collector car storage - Applies to all cars
Evaluating paint - Applies to all cars
John Elder Robison is the general manager of J E Robison Service Company, independent restoration and repair specialists in Springfield, Massachusetts. John is a longtime technical consultant to the Bentley, Mercedes, BMW, Porsche and Rolls Royce Owner's Clubs, and he’s owned and restored many of these fine vehicles. Find him online at www.robisonservice.com or in the real world at 413-785-1665
4 comments:
You are dramatic at times. I am a trained Rolls Royce mechanic from the early 60's and today's old cars are driven so little that most of what you say is correct but irrelevant. I have driven a 1980 RR SS II with badly worn fan belts for up to 20 years and they still sit in my garage in the same condition. No one is interested in rebuilding the car to drive it and wear it out over and over. You must keep up the function of the systems as you say, but that is simple. My 1986 and 1980 get 20 miles a week om them.
Thanks for your comments. I understand a car may start and run with 40 year old belts, but the article isn't aimed at the person who's had the car 40 years. It's meant for the person who buys that car and now wants to use it regularly. For them, the belts are a likely failure point
I have a 1998 Continental R. It will not shift out of park. The dash display says “check gearbox.” This happened all at once. I was turning the car around in the driveway. The battery had been low and I started the car with a jump box.
Any suggestions?
Dave Hook
1998 Continental R will not shift out of park.
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