"It’s only got 25,000 miles on the odometer! It’s been stored for ten-plus years! It’s got to be in great shape, right? How much will it take to put the car back on
the road? The seller only wants ten thousand dollars. It's got to be a bargain, right?"
Quite a lot, in most cases.
This is the story of one of those cars.
1980 Rolls Royce Silver Wraith II (c) JE Robison |
The late70s long wheelbase Shadows were badged as Silver Wraith II cars (C) JE Robison |
Jay’s Silver Wraith II arrived at Robison Service in the
beginning of August, 2015. We saw a fairly clean-looking 1980 Silver Wraith II that had
not run in some time. The inspection
sticker dated from the spring of 2007 – 8 years previously. The owner believed the odometer reading of 30,300 was original. The interior and
mechanicals looked original; the body was repainted but clean and
undamaged. There was no sign of mildew
or corrosion – at least where we could see.
We began this project by getting the car running
(temporarily) and doing an evaluation of what we could see without a road test.
The original fuel pump had failed and we had to make some modifications to
install a new style pump from Bentley, because the current replacement unit
uses entirely different line fittings and mounts. The old Opus electronic ignition had failed
in storage and had to be replaced. We identified a number of basic drivability problems
that would have to be addressed before the car could be evaluated on the road:
- The owner was aware of inoperative brakes when he put the
car in storage;
- We also found an inoperative parking brake;
- We found deteriorated fuel in the tank and
corrosion/leakage at carburetors;
- There were a number of damaged rubber bushings in the front
end that would lead to noise when driving;
- We saw collapsed brake supply hoses and aged hoses to
wheels;
- All four tires were badly dry rotted.
We noted that the car was still a ways from being drivable
and there could be other issues when it was on the road. With an optimistic outlook, we set out to
solve those major problems first. The
owner felt that most accessories had worked when the car was put in storage and
he hoped they were still okay.
The first focus of our attention was the brakes, which did
not work. There was no system pressure.
We replaced the supply hose to the front pump and tested the circuit.
The front pump did turn out to be damaged, and we ordered a new one. From there we moved on to the wheels. We removed all six brake calipers and found
rusted and frozen pistons in all of them. This is characteristic of a car that
sat a long time without the required annual fluid flushes. The cure is new pistons and seals. The caliper bodies are generally usable once
they are cleaned and honed, which we did.
When we took the calipers off we also examined the flexible
hoses and found several of them were collapsing internally like the supply
line. All appeared to be original and all were scheduled for replacement. Rolls-Royce calls for these hoses to be
replaced at the 8-year service interval but few owners do that. In modern times, Land Rover and other
carmakers have seen failures of 8-year-old brake hoses so the risk of failure
is clearly real.
We pulled the combined accumulator/valve assemblies apart
and found more rust and corrosion. We
tried to clean them, but in the end, the accumulator valve units were too
corroded to repair and both had to be replaced.
Those valves are no longer available new so we sourced rebuilt units
from the UK. The accumulators themselves
were rebuilt with new diaphragms and seals and recharged in our shop. That was a bit of a challenge as the
accumulators had been rebuilt at some time in the past and they were assembled
incorrectly, so the factory holding tools could not be put in place. We got them apart and they are assembled in
correct alignment now.
We fitted new brake pads and retaining hardware once the
calipers were rebuilt (most of the anti-rattle hardware was missing when the
car arrived). The calipers were refitted to the car with new rubber hoses, and
the parking brake calipers were rebuilt.
With this work done, we had proper functionality in one hydraulic
circuit but the other pump continued to fail the test and we replaced it. With
that done we had brake pressure in both systems.
Moving on to the engine, we completed overhaul of
carburetors and setup of the engine. We
drained the fuel system and refilled with clean gas, to find the gauge did not
work. The sender turned out to leak
internally and we replaced it. We
replaced the aged ignition wires and mis-matched plugs, and repaired the
distributor balance weights and springs which had been damaged by rusting in
place. The bimetallic choke element was broken and we fixed that. We tracked down and fixed a number of vacuum
leaks and some under hood wiring errors that stemmed from prior vernacular repair
efforts. With that done the engine ran
well.
The owner provided a set of Hankook tires which we mounted
and fitted to the car. The owner decided
against fitting the original Avon tires due to the high cost and limited
availability. We have had good success
with Hankook tires in the past. The only
issue we’ve seen is that the sidewalls are a lot softer than the Avon tires,
and that makes for mushier handling.
However, that is not a concern for many owners of these cars.
We then turned to the transmission, which still had the
original undercoating on the pan bolts, indicating the fluid had never been
changed. Inside we found a lot of sludge
– no surprise with 35-year-old fluid. We
cleaned the valve body and pan, changed the filter, and filled with fresh
fluid. With the amount of sludge we
found inside we have some concerns for the life of this gearbox, but there is
nothing more we can do right now.
When we ran the car we measured normal brake pressure on our
test gauge but the warning lights did not work properly. We rebuilt the switches (a common job.) The car was taken on its first road test and
some issues were noted with the accessories.
The air conditioning system was empty; we charged it with
the owner’s supply of R12. The heat
worked and the dash outlets worked when the Fascia switch was operated. Two
windows were inoperative. We took apart both right side window motors and
cleaned them up as best we could as new parts are no longer available. We repaired broken wiring in the driver door
and passenger front door for locks and windows.
The car was all over the road on road test so we replaced
all four shocks and we also changed the bushings that had been rattling. After review with the owner, we fitted
Bilstein shocks front and rear; they are the most common choice for this type of
car with a slightly more positive ride than the original units.
We continued to road test the car and experienced a loss of
pressure on both brake hydraulic systems.
We traced that to one inch of sludge blocking the outlets on the bottom
of the reservoir. We cleaned out that sludge and replaced the screens and seals
on the reservoir. That remedied the loss of pressure when hot but we were still
seeing contamination from the level control in the rear circuit.
We took apart and cleaned the level control rams, valves,
and lines. We removed quite a bit of gelled fluid from that last area. When we did that work the rear level control
began working (it had been inoperative.)
We were finally able to bleed it and eliminate most knocking noise from
the rear.
After further running the engine oil and filter were
changed. The transmission was drained
and filled again, and the rear axle fluid was changed. Engine coolant had been changed in the
earlier round of work (we drained it for the carburetor work) so all fluids are
now fresh. The fuel system is all clear;
the tank was removed and cleaned and the outlet hoses were serviced as needed
when it was out. Some lines were changed
on the motor; there are others that may need attention in the future.
All the running lights were checked and several exterior
lights were repaired. Most of the light repairs were simple, but a few required
tracing dead wire circuits back to the main distribution panel, and some hours
were spent bringing the lights back to life. One shock absorber ball joint was changed, and
the compliance mounts were renewed in the front end. With that done the car steered well and all
joints are tight. New carpet mats were
laid into the passenger compartment and the trunk and battery tray was
reassembled. Interior detailing was not
within the scope of this job, but the interior is complete and most accessories
seem to be in working order.
The car is driving fairly well now. It starts and runs well, and the engine is
quiet. There are no major fluid leaks at
this time. Steering and ride are normal. Brakes are working properly though there is
still some roughness from the brake rotors – which the owner elected to leave
alone for now. There is slight sag in
the front and rear springs. All in all,
this car is now better than 90% of the Shadow II and Wraith II cars on the
road.
Going forward, I recommend that the transmission fluid be
drained and refilled next season. The
brake hydraulic fluid really needs to be changed on these cars annually and
that should be done next fall (or in spring 2017) to protect the work we did on
that system. Other than that, future
maintenance needs will be limited to issues that arise in use, and cosmetic
fixing up.
I advised the owner to always use the highest-octane fuel he
can get. If the car is to be stored I
actually suggest filling with aviation fuel as that does not have the ethanol
that proves so destructive. These cars use Mobil Delvac engine oil, 15-40 or
15-50 weight. The GM 400 transmission
uses regular Dexron fluid. The coolant
is the traditional green ethylene glycol mix.
Brake fluid is a special RR363 product and that’s the only fluid you
should use in that system. I suggest putting
the tires up to the maximum pressure for winter storage, and I recommend the
rubber chocks from www.flatstoppers.com
to preserve the tire roundness.
This job is typical of a comprehensive re-commissioning of a
Shadow-era Rolls-Royce or Bentley motorcar.
We spent a bit over 200 hours on this project between August and
November 2015. Our labor was divided among mechanical work, alignment and tire
work, electrical troubleshooting, and cosmetic and detail work. Most of the parts we needed were available,
though no one vendor had them all, and the factory no longer supports many of
the pieces we used. When considering the time spent, remember we have lifts and all factory tools, and we have experience (some of us were trained on these cars when they were new!) A hobbyist doing this at home would likely need considerably more time.
I hope this gives a perspective of what it will take to
bring a long-stored RR/B back to life; this car was actually in better shape than many we see.
It’s worth noting that many of the major service headaches on this car
could have been headed off by proper preventative care before the car was put
away. Sadly, that does not usually
happen. The best we can do is go through
all the key systems step by step and bring the car to life in an orderly and
efficient manner, knowing that we will still probably encounter unforeseen
problems and complications.
(c) 2015 John Elder Robison
John Elder Robison is the general manager of J E Robison Service Company, celebrating 30 years of independent Rolls-Royce and Bentley restoration and repair in Springfield, Massachusetts. John is a longtime technical consultant to the Rolls-Royce and Bentley clubs, and he’s owned and restored many fine British motorcars. Find him online at www.robisonservice.com or in the real world at 413-785-1665
Reading this article will make you smarter, especially when it comes to car stuff. So it's good for you. But don't take that too far - printing and eating it will probably make you sick.
5 comments:
Wow that's a lot of work! Seems like you practically rebuilt the car. Owner must be rich to pay for all of that. As for me, I would have used explosives. Haha! WOOF!
Wow that's a lot of work! Seems like you practically rebuilt the car. Owner must be rich to pay for all of that. As for me, I would have used explosives. Haha! WOOF!
Very nice to have your knowledge shared
super post
Awesome post
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