This is the time of year when we
depend on heat in our cars. For most of
us, the heat delivers on its design promise.
For a few unfortunates, though, it doesn’t. The mechanic checks the coolant level, and
makes sure the thermostat is working as it should. If the engine is up to temperature the next
place to look is the heater control circuitry.
When all else fails we are left with the possibility that the heater
core itself has failed.
Heater core replacement is the automotive equivalent of a root canal. It's ugly, painful, and costly but sometimes it has to be done.
Heater cores are like small
radiators that shed some of the engine’s heat into the passenger
compartment. There are two ways a heater
core can fail – by leaking or by clogging.
Leaks are obvious because you’ve got coolant all over the floor. Clogged cores are more subtle.
Take a look at this core from a
2006 Land Rover LR3. There’s nothing
obviously wrong from outside, but when we cut the core open we saw a different
story. The whole far side of the core is
clogged. Only the left side of the core
remains open.
You might think that would cause
weak heat, but it actually created a different problem. This Land Rover – like
many other late model cars – has separate temperature controls for the driver
and passenger. The air that blows
through the core is sent to the left and right sides respectively, so with one
side clogged we had normal heat on the passenger side, and virtually no heat
for the driver.
This seemed like a control problem
but it wasn’t. When heater cores clog
the repair is often a big deal. In this
Land Rover the whole dash had to come out for repair, as you see. Jobs like this can run into multiple days of
labor, and cost thousands of dollars.
And this is no place to cut corners looking for a low bid – this is
detailed work. Every fastener left
loose, and every broken bracket is a potential rattle. There are a hundred electrical connections,
and any that come loose are problems for tomorrow. This is work for someone who knows Rovers and
specializes in large interior repairs.
When a job like this is done there
will be faults in the airbag system and many other dash electronic
systems. The person who does the work
will need to have a factory-level test system to clear those faults and ensure
everything is working as it should.
At Robison Service we are proud to be known as
experts in repairs like this. Author
John Robison is a long time Land Rover service manager, and a technical advisor
to many Rover clubs. He’s written many
articles on Land Rover service – indexed here.
No Land Rovers were harmed in the
writing of this story, and environmentally friendly repair methods were used
throughout. We are located in Springfield, Massachusetts, where we stand ready to provide top-quality service and repair to owners of BMW, Jaguar, Land Rover, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, and Rolls-Royce and Bentley motorcars.
© J E Robison Service
2 comments:
Thanks for having an in-depth overview and progression of solving this issue. Mine recently went out last week with the same symptoms on a 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. However if so can find someone that does the pressure blast as in your YouTube video I linked here from; I may just have to pull the heater core.
Any LA based Land Rover Repair specialist that would do this maybe slim.
However, the right side of the dash is cracking at the Airbag line and goes almost all the way down now. If Land Rover will not honor the dash repair and Airbag recall on it I may just replace the dash at the same time of the the heater core.
Thank you for the information. I have a 2007 LR3 with a similar issue . No heat on the drivers side. I have changed the heater core with a new one and it’s not clogged and the pipes get HOT. So that’s not the issue. I endoscoped the vents and can visually see the servo motors moving the flaps. However still no heat. My understanding is there is still one flap in the rear of the heaterbox which I cannot get to that has a flap that allows all heat to reach the blower. Is that true. Also is there a matrix that shows what flaps are controlled by which servos and which controls temperature. The rear of the vehicle gets hot on both sides as well as the top vents. It’s just the drivers face, foot and window vents that blow cold all of the time. I have no codes for broken motors and have video of the flaps opening and closing. Any help would be of assistance.
Post a Comment